Sticking Together

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A recent chat about glue in a Facebook beading group got me thinking: How much do we really know about the glue we work with?

Today, you’ll learn some interesting facts and useful tips on using E6000 and G-S Hypo Cement, two glues that we stock and that cover perhaps all beading uses.

E6000

There’s a reason you never see ads for this polyurethane-based glue: it sells itself. It sticks to just about anything – wood, metal, glass, leather, rubber, vinyl, ceramics and many plastics. It’s resistant to humidity, extreme heat, is waterproof, flexible, and non-flammable, and dries clear and paintable! Oh, and it dries quickly, depending on humidity. It gets tacky in about 2 minutes, sets in 10, and fully cures in 24-72 hours.

It is not recommended for polystyrene, polyethylene or polypropylene plastics (used mostly for food and beverage containers). If you need to clean a bit up, use small amounts of acetone or a citrus-based solvent, but do it before it cures. Once it’s cured you’ll need to cut or scrape it off.

For beaders, it’s often best to purchase the small tubes, but we carry the large tube as well.

Because it’s guaranteed to deliver industrial strength, I used E6000® Clear Glue to hold my kitchen table together after hubby and I fudged the assembly of the IKEA table!! LOL Well, two years later, it’s still good. Here are a few links to useful pages:

E6000 Safety Data Sheet and E6000 Guidelines for Use

G-S Hypo Cement

This tiny tube with its fine precision applicator was created in the 1930s for the watchmaking and jewelry repair industries.

Like E6000, G-S Hypo Cement dries clear and sets in 10 minutes, but it differs in that it’s only medium-strength – it doesn’t fuse surfaces (nor does it bond fingers like a few other precision application glues). But it’s important to note that it is a highly flammable liquid and vapour.

It’s so useful for jewelry makers because it is ideal for non-porous surfaces and won’t damage foil backings or precious surfaces – like the foil backings of many cabochons.

This cement can be removed easily with a bit of rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover.

Because the applicator is so fine, a few tips on how to use it are useful:

  • Store it standing with tip up (in a spice jar perhaps?).
  • Never squeeze to release glue as this may dislodge the nozzle. After removing the cap, hold it in your palm to warm it and get the glue flowing (depending on where you live this might not be needed).
  • Once you’ve finished up, hold the tube upright for a bit, wipe the tip with a bit of nail polish remover or rubbing alcohol, and replace the cap.  I’ve found that a pair of magnifiers on your glasses help, or place the applicator flat against your finger to help guide the cap wire into the precision applicator.
  • To set the tube aside while working on multiple applications, place it upright in the holder you have designated for it with a piece of sponge soaked in nail polish remover over the applicator.

And here are a few links to useful pages:

GS Guidelines for Use and GS Safety Data Sheet

Doing my part to help us stick together, my beadiful buds!

Cathy

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